With more consumers choosing "no and low" for lifestyle or health reasons, the wine world is responding with an entirely new category: alcohol-removed wine-based products. These aren't simply diluted grape juice, but rather complex creations shaped by science.
We are sharing the dissertation that earned Mary Schneier the Michael Cox Vintners’ Bursary for the best D6 submission in the APAC region, as part of her WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines.
The bibliography can be found at the end of the piece.
The low- and no-alcohol wine category (NoLo) has recently seen rapid growth with promising continuation. To quantify this growth, “low-alcohol” and “no-alcohol” must first be defined. The low-alcohol category is tricky, showing wide variation across countries. The Australia and New Zealand Food Standards Code defines “low alcohol” as products containing less than 1.15% alcohol by volume, or abv, whereas the WSET defines “low alcohol” as below 11% abv. Although the WSET’s definition is more widely accepted, it is not legally recognized. The no-alcohol category aligns more cohesively, with most countries establishing an allowable level of ≤0.5% abv. Products below 0.5% abv can be labeled as “dealcoholized” or “non-intoxicating”. “Zero alcohol” or “alcohol free” denotes products with less than 0.04% abv.
Although the NoLo category remains a small portion of total wine sales, its growth largely outperforms the overall wine category. In 2020, NoLo wines accounted for less than 0.5% of total global wine consumption. However, the ISWR projected the NoLo category to grow an average of 15% per year from 2021-2025, while projecting total wine volume to only grow by less than 1%. No-alcohol products drive growth in the NoLo category. In the US, the ISWR reports that no-alcohol held 70% market share of the category, and volumes are forecasted to grow 25% between 2022-2026. The low-alcohol segment is predicted to grow 6%. In the UK, the no-alcohol sector is forecasted to grow 10% during the same time period, with low-alcohol set to grow 3%. Smaller start-up companies constitute most of this growth, additionally fueled by product extensions associated with popular full-strength brands. In the EU, a study among select member states estimates the NoLo wine category consists of 42 million liters with a value of €322 million. France leads in value but is second in volume, while Germany leads in volume but comes second in value.
The changing consumer preferences of millennials and Gen Z instigated this growth. Millennials range from ages 28-43, while Gen Z range from ages 14-27. Millennials are known for being adaptive and open-minded since growing up with technology integrated into their daily lives. They are the most formally educated generation, continually learning and questioning the status quo, with Gen Z following suit. These traits led them to forge a new narrative around alcohol.
The “sober curious” movement, widely adopted by millennials and Gen Z, allows imbibers to question their drinking habits. Sober curious people are those not ready to be teetotalers but are looking to moderate consumption or occasionally abstain from alcohol. Ruby Warrington, a New York writer, coined the term in 2016 and authored “Sober Curious: The Blissful Sleep, Greater Focus, Limitless Presence, and Deep Connection Awaiting Us All on the Other Side of Alcohol”. Her book encourages readers to reevaluate their relationship with alcohol. It promotes mindful drinking over succumbing to the more prominent mainstream drinking culture of adulthood. By semi-meditating on one’s drinking habits, one can understand what he or she feels, enjoys, and dislikes about the experience of drinking alcohol. Individuals then become more thoughtful about how often, where, what kind, and how much alcohol they consume.
Millennials and Gen Z also value health and wellbeing, and the benefits of increased sobriety highlight these principles. In addition to cutting calories and reducing sugar intake, benefits include heightened concentration and memory, more restful sleep, boosted immune system and energy, lower cardiovascular risk and risk of cancer, and overall, more sound mental health. Additionally, millennials and Gen Z are image conscious. Being avid users of social media, their lives are accessible to and scrutinized by everyone. They choose to drink less or simply not at all to avoid reputational damage. Hangovers are also avoided, as they limit mental capacity and restrict activities the following day.
Millennials and Gen Z choose to drink less or simply not at all to avoid reputational damage on social media.
Though consumer preferences drove product innovation, government restrictions and health organizations changed consumer habits. Progressive reductions in legal blood alcohol content levels, as seen in countries like Australia and New Zealand, encourage people to drink less or seek non-alcoholic options. The World Health Organization has long been actively campaigning for the reduction of alcohol consumption. Recently they declared that no level of alcohol consumption is safe. Dr. Carina Ferreira-Borges stated:
We cannot talk about a so-called safe level of alcohol use. It doesn’t matter how much you drink – the risk to the drinker’s health starts from the first drop of any alcoholic beverage. The only thing we can say for sure is that the more you drink, the more harmful it is – or, in other words, the less you drink, the safer it is.
Alcohol consumption has also been linked to at least seven different types of cancer. Light or moderate drinking shows some health benefits for cardiovascular diseases and type II diabetes; however, no studies have proven these benefits outweigh the risk of cancer development (WHO, 2023a). Thus, the WHO urged governments to increase taxes on alcohol to deter consumption and reduce deaths. They estimate that 2.6 million people around the world die from alcohol consumption annually. The WHO conducted a study in 2017, demonstrating that a 50% increase in alcohol prices could save over 21 million lives in a period of 50 years, as well as raise additional revenues of almost $17 trillion USD.
The UK took this advice and on August 1st, 2023, Prime Minister Rishi Sunak and Chancellor Jeremy Hunt implemented a new tax scheme for alcoholic beverages. Based on alcoholic strength rather than type like in most countries, an overall 10.1% duty increase blankets wine and spirits. The duty tax for a bottle of still wine with 12.5% abv increased by 20%, or £0.44, while the duty for fortified wines increased by 44%, equating to £1.50 per bottle. Drinks below 3.5% abv benefit from lower tax, as well as still and some sparkling wines below 11.5% abv.
These ripples created a wave of demand for wines that fit these criteria, prompting producers to search for technologies that reduce alcohol. Several methods sufficiently remove alcohol after fermentation, but two are most commonly used in the industry: reverse osmosis (RO) and spinning cone column (SCC). RO is a membrane-based dealcoholization ideally used for low-alcohol wines, as it effectively removes up to 4-5% abv from the base wine. SCC, a non-membrane-based dealcoholization method, is better suited for no-alcohol and zero-alcohol wines.
It can reduce abv from 15% to less than 1%, completely separating the wine from its full alcoholic content.
RO employs a two-part sequence. Wine is pumped from a tank into the machine in an enclosed circulatory system, initially running parallel to a reverse osmosis membrane. The membrane separates the wine into concentrate and permeate, which is rich in alcohol and volatile compounds. The concentrate loops back into the tank, while the permeate is pumped into a separate part of the machine. The permeate is heated and runs alongside a second microporous membrane with strip water flowing on the other side in the opposite direction. The alcohol becomes vapor and is extracted through the membrane into the strip water, while the volatiles stay with the permeate. The strip water is collected and pumped into a separate tank. The dealcoholized permeate rejoins the concentrate where it is chilled and circulated into the wine tank. Each circulation removes 1-2% and can be performed at ambient temperatures of 12-18°C. RO should be performed once the wine is stabilized and filtered as solids can damage the membranes.
RO has long been an affordable tool for wine producers. The machine is small enough to transport, allowing wineries to hire it and RO on site rather than sending their wine away for processing. Vinovation in California charges $12 USD per gallon of pure alcohol removed from the treated wine. For wineries looking to purchase their own machine, they offer different sizes ranging from $50,000 to over $200,000. In New Zealand, Vintech Pacific offers the service for $0.65 NZD per liter of wine processed. In France and Spain, Michael Paetzold charges a mere 0.15€ per liter for 1% abv ethanol removed. In terms of product loss, the alcohol and volatiles removed account for roughly 10% of the processed volume. This volume can be recovered through further distillation but adds cost.
How RO affects the style and quality of the wine depends on the level of dealcoholization. Many producers have seen positive results when dealcoholizing by -1 to -2% abv to combat climate change. In a study of partial dealcoholization of AOC Priorat and AOC Penedes wines, researchers found negligible differences in color and chemical composition analysis and aroma and flavor profiles upon panel evaluation. Because the RO membrane separates on molecular weight rather than electrical charge, most wine parameters are unchanged. Operating at ambient temperature also decreases aroma loss. However, removing alcohol at the upper end of the spectrum can negatively affect the wine’s style and quality. Some aromas and volatile compounds with smaller molecular weights are removed with the alcohol, which decreases the aromatic profile of the final product.
Additionally, alcohol brings viscosity and removing a larger portion can make other compounds like acids and polyphenols seem more concentrated. Two Aglianico wines were subject to RO alcohol removal rates of -2%, -3%, and -5% abv, and tasters noted significant aroma and flavor differences at the -5% rate, whereas differences were subtler at the lower rates. In both of the -5% abv RO wines, panelists indicated decreases in red fruits, cherry, and spicy notes and an increase in astringency and acidity.
SCC operates differently to RO, separating the treated wine into three portions: volatile aromas, alcohol, and a dearomatized and dealcoholized wine base. SCC is a vertical rotating shaft, containing inverted, downward pointing cones. A vacuum is applied to regulate the temperature of the strip vapor, which is fed through the bottom of the column. In the first stage, the wine travels through the column at a low pressure of 0.04 atm and temperature of 28°C, where the aromas and some alcohol quickly separate from the wine and into the strip vapor. This portion accounts for 1-2% of the total product volume and typically contains between 55% and 65% abv. The second stage separates the alcohol from the wine, which occurs at a slower rate. Both the vacuum pressure and temperature increase, separating the alcohol into the strip vapor before collection. The base wine, if fully dealcoholizing, contains 0% abv, while the pure alcohol portion consists of around 46% abv.
SCC is considerably more expensive than RO in energy consumption, product loss percentage, and cost. Although it is possible to dealcoholize a small portion of wine with SCC and blend back to create a low alcohol wine, RO is a much cheaper option. Energy consumption during SCC is nearly triple that of RO. Around 18-22% of the processed volume is lost during SCC due to concentration. The main benefit of SCC over RO is the ability to recover all aromas during the dealcoholization process. The full aroma can be added back to the blend if the goal is to make a low alcohol wine. However, if making a no-alcohol wine, further distillation is required to completely isolate the aromas, which adds cost. The full volume of aroma cannot be added back to the dealcoholized wine because it will raise the alcohol content above legal limits. In the US, ConeTech, owned by Australian parent company Flavourtech, charges approximately USD $1 per gallon of wine treated. Vintech Pacific charges $1.15 per liter. Flavourtech offers two models for purchase: the SCC 1,000, which costs around AUS $1.1 million, or the SCC 10,000, which costs around AUS $1.7 million. Due to the high initial investment and additional associated costs, only large companies that produce significant amounts of no-alcohol wine can afford this technology. Two such companies include Trinchero, who produces Sutter Home’s alcohol-removed line Fre, and Giesen, who produces an alcohol-removed 0% line. In both cases, the alcohol-removed products are more expensive than their full-strength comparisons. At Total Wine in the US, Fre Non-Alcoholic Chardonnay retails for USD $8.49, while the Sutter Home Chardonnay retails for USD $4.49. At New World supermarkets in New Zealand, Giesen’s 0% Sauvignon blanc retails for NZD $15.99, while their 2023 Estate Sauvignon blanc retails for NZD $14.99.
SCC compromises style and quality as RO does but with higher stakes. The total absence of alcohol alters the volatile compound structure, decreasing aroma and flavor intensity, and completely depletes the wine’s viscosity. Therefore, many producers use sugar to increase the body and mimic viscosity. Achieving this requires higher rates of sugar additions than are typical for full-strength wines. Giesen’s 2023 Estate Sauvignon blanc at 12.4% abv contains 3.3 g/L of sugar, while their 0% Sauvignon blanc contains 18 g/L of sugar. Additionally, SCC removes almost all free sulfur during the dealcoholization process, significantly reducing the wine’s microbial stability. Producers must add additional preservatives like sulfur or velcorin and bottle immediately to avoid spoilage. Completely removing alcohol from a wine not only increases sensory risks but also stability risks, with the potential of severely shortening the product’s shelf life.
The future growth of no-alcohol wines relies on improving their aromas and flavors.
As a winemaker, I gained experience in trialing both SCC and RO on New Zealand Sauvignon blanc upon requests from our USA and UK distributors. With SCC, we saw a marked increase in pH and acidity of the base wine and a noticeable alteration of its flavor profile. This prompted additional trials, examining deacidification, sweetening, and the use of gums to shift the palate toward its original balance before SCC. Our balanced, full-strength wine became a Frankenstein product that needed reconstruction before sewing it back together. Despite these further manipulations, we could not achieve the quality we were seeking. We also considered the small size of the no-alcohol market, its saturation of products from large companies like Giesen, and the volume required to compete with these producers and justify operational costs. All of these factors deterred us from entering the no-alcohol market. However, we had success in creating a low alcohol wine at 11% abv using RO. We treated a portion of the wine to 9.2% abv and blended it back with our full-strength 12.5% abv wine. The resulting wine resembled its original identity, only with a lighter body and a more sour-tasting acidity. After conducting trials, we remedied these aspects by increasing the residual sugar from 3.2 g/L to 7 g/L. We saw no barriers into the low-alcohol market as we labeled this wine under a pre-existing brand with our already established importer in the UK. Additional production costs were passed on to the importer but were mitigated on their end by the savings from the new alcohol tax scheme.
The future growth of no-alcohol wines relies on improving their aromas and flavors. To compete with other non-alcoholic products, wine producers must find a way to bridge the gap between no-alcohol wines that lack body and flavor and the complexity and fuller mouthfeel of their full-strength wines. Zero-alcohol beer fuels the success of the no-alcohol category, making up 85.3% of sales in the US and dominates in both value and volume in the UK. No-alcohol wine is piggybacking off this success, yet its growth stems from its novelty rather than quality. Many celebrities and social media influencers endorse zero alcohol products, such as Sarah Kate, a Canadian non-alcoholic drinks expert and sommelier. Her publication “Some Good Clean Fun” reviews and recommends no-alcohol wines alongside mocktails and non-alcoholic beer. Many of her reviews of no-alcohol wines are positive, but she often mentions lighter aromatics and flavors and lack of structure. In a Wine Intelligence study, many consumers described reservations about taste and perception of lower quality as reasons for not buying no-alcohol wine. In the “New Zealand Blind Tasting”, MW Emma Jenkins led 27 judges and industry professionals in assessing 845 wines across 10 of their wine producing regions. In 2022, the small NoLo category consisted of 10 wines across 4 varieties. The panelists commented on the overall class, “Whilst the category may be in demand, it’s a pretty sad state of affairs to use premium fruit and turn it into sour, hard wines, some bolstered by sugar.”
Another obstruction for the growth of no-alcohol wines is the concurrent trend for authentic, natural wines. As climate change became too problematic to ignore, people are increasingly concerned with the environment. This influenced buying decisions, and consumers demand transparency from the companies from whom they purchase goods. Consumers want to buy a high-quality wine made by people with values that align with theirs; something they can believe in and identify with. Employing sustainable, organic, and biodynamic viticulture practices attracts customers, as does low-intervention winemaking that emphasizes minimal additives and manipulation of the fruit. No-alcohol wine contradicts this philosophy, and its production is completely unnatural. Removing alcohol from a wine post-fermentation is expensive, and adding in the energy costs of the viticultural practices to produce fully ripe grapes and winemaking practices to ferment to dryness with optimal aroma and flavor balance makes this practice entirely unsustainable.
Wines made thoughtfully from day one resonate with consumers. Because low-alcohol wines can be made this way, I believe these wines are the true future of the NoLo category. Although SCC and RO are useful tools to combat climate change and for small tweaks, dealcoholizing post-fermentation is the wrong way to make quality wine. Balance and complexity are easily achieved when grapes are intentionally grown to make a low-alcohol wine. Numerous vineyard techniques can be employed, such as shortening the canopy to limit photosynthesis and slow ripening and picking earlier at lower sugar levels to naturally achieve lower alcohol. In the winery, selecting yeast strains that metabolize sugar into components other than ethanol can reduce alcohol levels. Stopping the fermentation with the desired residual sugar also reduces alcohol and achieves better balance by retaining natural sugar rather than sweetening afterward. New Zealand’s Forrest Estate pioneered many of these techniques and produces low alcohol wines, including their Doctor’s Sauvignon blanc at 9.5% abv. Additionally, we must promote the already existing wealth of high quality distinctive wine styles that are naturally lower in alcohol, such as many German Rieslings, Hunter Valley Semillon, Asti, and more. These historic styles produce fantastic wines at lower alcohol without compromising aromatics, flavor, or quality. The wine industry should be investing in the early stages of grape growing and educating the consumer rather than technologies that remove alcohol at the end of the winemaking process.
Entering into the low- and no-alcohol wine category is a journey, for both consumers and producers. It’s not quite uncharted territory, but it is very much the Wild West of wines – inhabited by dreamers and innovators, a few rules yet much is left open to interpretation, and an expanse of unmapped potential. Many producers have worked the hard yards and pioneered the technology, and many consumers have willingly followed down their path. The wine industry still has much ground to cover to understand low- and no-alcohol wines, but once more producers hop on the bandwagon and collaborate, it’s only a matter of time before we strike gold.
Our thanks to Mary Schneier DipWSET for sharing this dissertation with us, which earned her the Michael Cox Vintners’ Bursary as the top APAC region performer in the D6 module of the Level 4 Diploma in Wines. Mary is a winemaker at Rose Family Estates in Marlborough, New Zealand.
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